crazywomenkennels

First, I know that it is hard to wait.....but wait you must! From the time you give a deposit until the time that you pick up your puppy seems to last  forever. But the puppy can not go home with you until the puppy is ready! That is at 8 weeks...sometimes a bit longer then 8 weeks. The puppy has to be ready, that is my first priority.  The puppy has to have its first sets of shots, be wormed, and be eating dry puppy chow well. There are NO exceptions to this rule!

I WILL CALL YOU WHEN THE TIME GETS CLOSER AND WE CAN SET UP A DATE FOR YOU TO GET YOUR BABY. I WILL ALSO POST UPDATES ON THEIR WEBPAGE.

BEING THE "SQUEEKY WHEEL" WILL NOT GET YOU YOUR PUPPY BEFORE HE/SHE IS READY!

THE PUPPIES HEALTH IS WHAT IS IMPORTANT, NOT YOUR SCHEDULE....SORRY, BUT THAT IS HOW IT IS. IF THE PUPPY ISNT READY TO LEAVE HERE, THE PUPPY STAYS HERE UNTIL IT IS. THEN YOU CAN BE SECURE IN KNOWING YOU WILL RECEIVE A HEALTHY HAPPY PUPPY THAT IS READY TO GO HOME WITH YOU!

YOU WILL RECEIVE HOUSEBREAKING,  PUPPY  CARE INSTRUCTIONS, CRATE BREAKING INSTRUCTIONS, FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS , A HEALTH CONTRACT.  AND THE PUPPY  SHOT/ WORMING  RECORD.  THESE WILL BE IN YOUR  PUPPYS  FOLDER WHEN YOU GET YOUR PUPPY. IF YOUR PUPPY IS REGISTERED, YOUR REGISTRATION PAPERS WILL ALSO  BE INCLUDED IN YOUR PUPPY FOLDER. 

PLEASE TAKE A TRIP TO THE LIBRARY AND CHECK OUT SOME PUPPY TRAINING BOOKS.  THERE ARE LOTS OF GOOD IDEAS AND METHODS THAT WORK, AND THEY  ARE JUST WAITING FOR YOU TO READ! DOODLES ARE SENSITIVE DOGS, TRAINING IS EASY WHEN YOU KNOW HOW. PRAISE AND TREATS ARE WHAT WORK BEST, DO NOT EVER HIT YOUR DOODLE, THEY NEED CONSISTENT TRAINING BUT NOT HARSH METHODS.

WHEN YOU COME TO PICK UP YOUR PUPPY, BRING PAPER TOWELS AND A PLASTIC GARBAGE BAG FOR THE MESSES THAT MAY OCCUR. BRING SOFT TOWELS. BRING A PLASTIC CRATE. (APPROX  CRATE SIZE THAT IS GOOD TO BEGIN WITH IS 26" X 18" X 16"FOR DOODLE BABIES)  AND HAND WASH FOR YOUR SELF  IS ALWAYS NICE! AND DONT FORGET TO BRING YOUR SENSE OF HUMOR...PUPPIES OFTEN GET CARSICK. THEY USUALLY OUTGROW THIS FAIRLY QUICKLY, BUT IT HAPPENS...DONT WORRY ABOUT BRINGING FOOD OR TOYS OR SUCH, THE PUPPY SHOULDNT BE FED IN THE CAR  (IT WILL JUST CAUSE THE BABY TO GET SICK) AND PROBABLY  THE PUPPY WILL HAVE NO INTEREST IN THE TOYS WITH ALL THE CONFUSION OF A NEW FAMILY. IF ITS A LONG TRIP A BOTTLE OF WATER IS NICE FOR THE PUPPY.

Line the crate with newspapers or "puppy pee pads" , the puppy may pee in the crate, that is okay.. do not plan on stopping and putting the puppy on the side of the road to pee! There are germs out there from the last dogs that went through...and those germs  may kill your puppy.

DO NOT PLAN ON TAKING YOUR PUPPY AROUND TO DOG  PARKS, PLAY DATES, ROAD TRIPS, OR  SHOWING HIM/ HER OFF TO YOUR FRIENDS. YOUR PUPPY NEEDS TO REST..AND SO DO YOU AS THE FIRST FEW NIGHTS HE/ SHE WILL PROBABLY KEEP YOU BOTH  AWAKE!

SERIOUSLY THOUGH,  THE GERMS THAT ARE OUT THERE WAITING FOR YOUR PUPPY CAN KILL HIM/ HER. UNTIL YOUR NEW BABY HAS AT LEAST TWO MORE SETS OF SHOTS BY YOUR VET, SO  KEEP YOUR PUPPY AT HOME AND LIMIT HIS/ HER SOCIAL LIFE JUST AS YOU WOULD WITH A HUMAN NEWBORN BABY.

WHAT TO SAY TO YOUR FRIENDS: IF YOUR FRIENDS (YES, YOUR FRIENDS..NOT JUST A RANDOM PERSON OFF THE STREET...THOSE STRANGERS  GET TOLD "NO, I AM SORRY BUT MY PUPPY HAS NOT HAD ALL OF HIS SHOTS YET" )  BUT IF YOUR  CLOSE FRIENDS WANT TO PET YOUR NEW BABY HAVE THEM WASH THEIR HANDS FIRST. YOU WOULDNT PASS YOUR NEW BORN HUMAN BABY AROUND WALMART, PLEASE GIVE THE SAME RESPECT TO YOUR NEW PUPPY!

DO NOT HAUL YOUR PUPPY AROUND SO THAT EVERYONE WHO ADMIRES HIM/ HER CAN HOLD AND PET HIM! THERE WILL BE PLENTY OF TIME LATER TO SHOW OFF YOUR PUPPY! IN THE MEAN TIME WORK WITH YOUR PUPPY ON HOUSEBREAKING, LEASH TRAINING AND NOT JUMPING UP ON PEOPLE,  AND HOW TO "SIT" , THEN WHEN YOU DO TAKE YOUR PUPPY OUT, HE /SHE WILL BE ADMIRED FOR HIS/ HER GOOD MANNERS,  NOT  JUST BECAUSE HE/ SHE IS THE MOST ADORABLE PUPPY EVER SEEN!

DO NOT SET YOUR PUPPY DOWN IN PUBLIC PLACES. THERE ARE GERMS THERE. ANOTHER WORDS, DO NOT PUT YOUR PUPPY DOWN ANYWHERE THAT YOU WOULD NOT PUT DOWN A BARE-ASSED HUMAN BABY!

WHEN YOU TAKE YOUR PUPPY TO THE VET FOR HIS/ HER CHECKUPS, BRING HIM/ HER IN THEIR CRATE! DONT DRAG YOUR PUPPY IN ON A LEASH, THEREFORE EXPOSING YOUR PUPPY TO EVERY SICK DOG THAT WALKED INTO THE VET OFFICE. AND AGAIN...NO SHARING GERMS.... OTHER PEOPLE ARE THERE BECAUSE THEY HAVE PETS, AND PROBABLY SICK PETS...YOU DONT WANT THEM TO TOUCH YOUR PUPPY. (AND DONT TOUCH THEIR PET, EITHER)! 

                                         ****MORE BELOW***

                                ***CARING FOR YOUR NEW PUPPY****

I suggest purchasing a crate for your puppy to travel, sleep in, and have down time in. Wal Mart seems to have the best prices on crates. A PLASTIC crate is what you are looking for, not a wire cage that some believe is a good kennel. They are not. . The wire cages are NOT the best choice for a puppy. The plastic crates make a puppy feel safer, its more like a "den'. You will be purchasing several crates as your puppy grows, pick a crate big enough for your puppy to sleep in...but not bounce around and play in! A GOOD  CRATE SIZE TO START WITH FOR A DOODLE  IS 26" X 18" X 16".

Next important item is a "puppy play pen" or exercise pen". These are usually a gold or black  color, they are 8 wire panels hooked together that fold out like an accordian . You can arrange this pen in many different shapes to contain your puppy   and they are also useful to block  a puppy out of a room . I dont ever buy the tall 3-4' Pens, only the 2 foot size. Its much easier to step into the pen to get the puppy if you can actually step over the sides...the doors to the pens are basically useless.Good luck trying to bend over to open the  door  while your puppy is jumping from excitement on the other side ! 

BOTH CRATES AND PLAY PENS CAN OFTEN BE FOUND USED ON CRAIGSLIST OR AT GARAGE SALES. JUST MAKE SURE THEY ARE SCRUBBED VERY WELL WITH A BLEACH/ WATER SOLUTION BEFORE YOU USE THEM. BLEACH KILLS PARVO AND OTHER NASTY BUGS. 

Dont go crazy purchasing toys for your puppy. Go to the Dollar store, buy the firm stuffies or rope toys there,  just not the   plastic  or soft rubber ones they will eat! The toys will eventually get so gross from wear, even after washing them you will be throwing them away. Its much  easier to throw away a dollor toy then the same toy you purchased for $8-$10 at a pet store!! 

The same advice  for leashes and collars, your puppy will be growing fast! Go to the dollor store until the puppy is older.

Buy your puppy  fresh apples,  soft carrots and real  beef  bones from the grocery store, what used to be called "Soup bones". these make great chew toys and your puppy needs to chew! I buy food quality bones, not the type sold at pet stores, just the type sold for people to make soup or broth with. A package of soup bones from the store will have several bones in it, just freeze the unused ones to keep them fresh. when the chewed on bone gets small, throiw it away so your puppy can not choke on it. 

Rawhide is dangerous, dont buy it for your puppy!

HERE ARE SOME OF THE MOST ASKED QUESTIONS.

1) WILL MY PUPPY HAVE HIS SHOTS?

ANSWER; OF COURSE THE PUPPY WILL BE STARTED ON HIS/ HER SERIES OF SHOTS! YOU MUST CONTINUE THE SHOT PROGRAM THAT YOUR VET RECOMMENDS. PLAN ON TAKING YOUR PUPPY IN TO THE VET FOR HIS/ HER NEXT SHOT, USUALLY  2-3 WEEKS AFTER PICKING UP YOUR PUPPY. HE/SHE WILL NEED SEVERAL MORE  BOOSTER SHOTS AND ALSO  A RABIES SHOT WHEN AGE APPROPRIATE. 

2) WILL THE PUPPY BE WORMED?

ANSWER; OF COURSE YOUR PUPPY WILL BE WORMED.  YOU MUST CONTINUE THE WORMING OF YOUR PUPPY AS YOUR PUPPY GROWS, APPROX EVERY TWO WEEKS. THIS IS BECAUSE THE WORMER KILLS THE WORMS BUT NOT THE EGGS, SO YOU KEEP WORMING THEM ON A SCHEDULE WHEN THEY ARE A PUPPY  TO STOP THE CYCLE.

3) WHAT WILL I FEED MY PUPPY, I WANT TO FEED IT THE SAME THAT YOU ARE FEEDING!

ANSWER; UNLESS YOU ARE WILLING TO COOK FOR THE PUPPY AS I DO, YOU WILL BE CHANGING HIS / HER FOOD. (IF YOU WANT TO COOK, THERE IS LOTS OF INFORMATION AND RECIPES OUT THERE! ) I USE HAMBURGER OR CHICKEN, RICE AND VEGGYS WITH A LITTLE BUTTER AND SOMETIMES EGGS.  (THE iNSTA POT MAKES THIS EASY!! ) I ALSO MIX SEVERAL BRANDS OF DRY PUPPY CHOW TOGETHER AND FEED THAT "FREE CHOICE" IN A SEPERATE BOWL   SO THE PUPPIES ARE USED TO MANY DIFFERENT TYPES/ FLAVORS.  I  FEED THE PUPPIES PLAIN UNFLAVORED YOGURT, (ABOUT A TABLESPOON EACH)  IT IS GOOD FOR THEIR BELLIES.  I ALSO FEED  FRESH GOATS MILK WHEN ITS AVAILABLE LOCALLY. (NEVER FEED COWS MILK THOUGH, UNLESS IT IS MADE INTO YOGURT OR COTTAGE CHEESE) 

SO, PICK A DECENT BRAND OF DRY PUPPY KIBBLE AND STICK TO IT. ADD A TABLESPOON OF UNFLAVORED YOGURT DAILY...EVEN AS AN ADULT.

YOU WILL HAVE FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED IN YOUR PUPPY PACKET.

4) WILL MY PUPPY BE HOUSEBROKEN?

ANSWER; I WISH!! THESE ARE BABIES AND YOU HAVE TO TEACH THEM. GOLDENDOODLES THAT ARE RAISED CLEAN AS MINE ARE, USUALLY HOUSEBREAK FAIRLY EASY. BE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF PAPER TOWELS AND NEWSPAPERS AND SPEND THE TIME THE FIRST WEEK YOU ARE TOGETHER WITH  HOUSEBREAKING YOUR PUPPY!!

5) HOW DO I REGISTER MY PUPPY ?

ANSWER;  IF YOUR PUPPY IS SOLD AS REGISTERED, YOUR PUPPY WILL COME WITH HIS "PUPPY PAPERS".  YOU CHOOSE A NAME FOR YOUR NEW BABY ,  FILL OUT THE PAPERWORK AND SEND IN THE REQUIRED FEE TO THE REGISTRY AND THEN THE OFFICIAL REGISTRATION PAPERS WITH HIS/ HER NAME AND YOUR NAME WILL BE SENT TO YOU FROM THE REGISTRY.  IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO BE SURE AND REGISTER YOUR PUPPY, THIS DOES HELP PROVE OWNERSHIP IF THERE IS EVER AN ISSUE IN THE FUTURE.