crazywomenkennels

First, I know that it is hard to wait.....but wait you must! From the time you give a deposit until the time that you pick up your puppy seems to last  forever. But the puppy can not go home with you until the puppy is ready! That is at 8 weeks...sometimes a bit longer then 8 weeks. The puppy has to be stable and  ready, that is my first priority.  The puppy has to have its first  2 sets of shots, be wormed,  be vet checked, and be eating dry puppy chow well. There are NO exceptions to this rule!

I WILL CALL YOU WHEN THE TIME GETS CLOSER AND WE CAN SET UP A DATE FOR YOU TO GET YOUR BABY. I WILL ALSO POST UPDATES ON THEIR WEBPAGE.

BEING THE "SQUEEKY WHEEL" WILL NOT GET YOU YOUR PUPPY BEFORE HE/SHE IS READY!

THE PUPPIES HEALTH IS WHAT IS IMPORTANT, NOT YOUR SCHEDULE....SORRY, BUT THAT IS HOW IT IS. IF THE PUPPY ISNT READY TO LEAVE , THE PUPPY STAYS HERE UNTIL IT IS. THEN YOU CAN BE SECURE IN KNOWING YOU WILL RECEIVE A HEALTHY HAPPY PUPPY THAT IS  READY TO GO HOME WITH YOU!

YOU WILL RECEIVE HOUSEBREAKING,  PUPPY  CARE INSTRUCTIONS, CRATE BREAKING INSTRUCTIONS, FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS , A HEALTH CONTRACT.  AND THE PUPPY  SHOT/ WORMING  RECORD.  THESE WILL BE IN YOUR  PUPPYS  FOLDER WHEN YOU GET YOUR PUPPY. IF YOUR PUPPY IS REGISTERED, YOUR REGISTRATION PAPER APPLICATION WILL ALSO  BE INCLUDED IN YOUR PUPPY FOLDER. 

PLEASE TAKE A TRIP TO THE LIBRARY AND CHECK OUT SOME PUPPY TRAINING BOOKS.  THERE ARE LOTS OF GOOD IDEAS AND METHODS THAT WORK, AND THEY  ARE JUST WAITING FOR YOU TO READ! DOODLES ARE SENSITIVE DOGS, TRAINING IS EASY WHEN YOU KNOW HOW. PRAISE AND TREATS ARE WHAT WORK BEST. DO NOT EVER HIT YOUR DOODLE, THEY NEED CONSISTENT TRAINING BUT NOT HARSH METHODS.

WHEN YOU COME TO PICK UP YOUR PUPPY, BRING PAPER TOWELS AND A PLASTIC GARBAGE BAG FOR THE MESSES THAT MAY OCCUR OR MAY HAVE ALREADY HAPPENED! YOUR PUPPY MAY BE "DRIPPY", POODLES AND POODLE/ DOODLES  GET CARSICK AND IT SEEMS TO BE SOMETHING THE DOODLES INHERIT. SOMETIMES THEY ARE JUST DROOLY, SOMETIMES THEY ARE SOGGY, IT IS ICKY BUT THAT IS LIFE AT THIS AGE.  BRING SOFT TOWELS. BRING A PLASTIC CRATE. (APPROX  CRATE SIZE THAT IS GOOD TO BEGIN WITH IS 26" X 18" X 16  FOR  THE GOLDEN  DOODLE BABIES)   AND HAND WASH FOR YOUR SELF  IS ALWAYS NICE! AND DONT FORGET TO BRING YOUR SENSE OF HUMOR...PUPPIES GET CARSICK. THEY USUALLY OUTGROW THIS FAIRLY QUICKLY, BUT IT HAPPENS...DONT WORRY ABOUT BRINGING FOOD OR TOYS OR SUCH, THE PUPPY SHOULDNT BE FED IN THE CAR  (IT WILL JUST CAUSE THE PUPPY TO GET SICK) AND PROBABLY  THE PUPPY WILL HAVE NO INTEREST IN THE TOYS WITH ALL THE CONFUSION OF A NEW FAMILY. IF ITS A LONG TRIP A BOTTLE OF WATER IS NICE FOR THE PUPPY.

  A TUBE OF A NUTRITIONAL GEL/ PASTE, SUCH AS NUTRI-CAL, NUTRI-DERM, FORTI-CAL OR ANOTHER BRAND OF THIS TYPE IS RECOMMENDED FOR ALL PUPPIES AND REQUIRED IF YOU ARE ADOPTING A SMALL BREED. I WILL SHOW YOU HOW TO USE IT WHEN YOU PICK UP YOUR NEW BABY, IT HELPS WITH THE STRESS OF THE TRIP AND THE FIRST FEW DAYS OF THE PUPPY ADJUSTING TO ITS NEW LIFE IN A NEW PLACE.

***YOU NEED THIS  NUTRITIONAL GEL  FOR THE SMALL BREEDS, IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A TUBE IN HAND WHEN YOU MEET ME TO GET YOUR SMALL BREED  PUPPY,  YOU WILL BE EXPECTED TO GO GET A TUBE BEFORE YOU ARE ALLOWED TO TAKE YOUR PUPPY! ****

Line the crate with newspapers or "puppy pee pads" , the puppy may pee in the crate, that is okay.. do not plan on stopping and putting the puppy on the side of the road to pee! There are germs out there from the last dogs that went through...and those germs  may kill your puppy. NEVER PUT YOUR NEW PUPPY DOWN IN A PUBLIC PLACE!! 

DO NOT PLAN ON TAKING YOUR PUPPY AROUND TO DOG  PARKS, PLAY DATES, ROAD TRIPS, OR  SHOWING HIM/ HER OFF TO YOUR FRIENDS. YOUR PUPPY NEEDS TO REST..AND SO DO YOU AS THE FIRST FEW NIGHTS HE/ SHE WILL PROBABLY KEEP YOU BOTH  AWAKE! WAIT UNTIL THE PUPPY HAS HAD HIS/ HER PUPPY SHOTS. 

SERIOUSLY THOUGH,  THE GERMS THAT ARE OUT THERE WAITING FOR YOUR PUPPY THAT  CAN KILL HIM/ HER. UNTIL YOUR NEW BABY HAS HAD ANOTHER SHOT FROM HIS /HER VET (AND THEN WAIT TEN DAYS ***AFTER**THAT SHOT) SO  KEEP YOUR PUPPY AT HOME AND LIMIT HIS/ HER SOCIAL LIFE JUST AS YOU WOULD WITH A HUMAN NEWBORN BABY.

WHAT TO SAY TO YOUR FRIENDS: IF YOUR FRIENDS (YES, YOUR FRIENDS..NOT JUST A RANDOM PERSON OFF THE STREET...THOSE STRANGERS  GET TOLD "NO, I AM SORRY  YOU MAY NOT TOUCH MY PUPPY  HE  HAS NOT HAD ALL OF HIS SHOTS YET" )  BUT IF YOUR  CLOSE FRIENDS WANT TO PET YOUR NEW BABY HAVE THEM WASH THEIR HANDS FIRST. YOU HOPEFULLY  WOULDNT PASS YOUR NEW BORN HUMAN BABY AROUND WALMART, PLEASE GIVE THE SAME RESPECT TO YOUR NEW PUPPY!

DO NOT HAUL YOUR PUPPY AROUND AND ALLOW  EVERYONE WHO SEES HIM HOLD AND PET HIM! THERE WILL BE PLENTY OF TIME LATER TO SHOW OFF YOUR PUPPY! IN THE MEAN TIME WORK WITH YOUR PUPPY ON HOUSEBREAKING, LEASH TRAINING AND NOT JUMPING UP ON PEOPLE,  AND HOW TO "SIT" , THEN WHEN YOU DO TAKE YOUR PUPPY OUT, HE /SHE WILL BE ADMIRED FOR HIS/ HER GOOD MANNERS,  NOT  JUST BECAUSE HE/ SHE IS THE MOST ADORABLE PUPPY EVER SEEN!

KEEP YOUR PUPPY FROM CONTACT WITH OTHERS UNTIL 10 DAYS **AFTER*** HIS/ HER **THIRD*** SHOT. YOUR PUPPY RECEIVES HIS SECOND SHOT BY OUR VET AT 8 WEEKS.  2-3 WEEKS LATER, YOUR VET WILL GIVE ANOTHER (THE THIRD)  BOOSTER SHOT. BE SURE TO KEEP THE PUPPIES SHOTS CURRENT, SHOTS  ARE CHEAP INSURANCE AGAINST CATCHING DEADLY DISEASES. 

YOU WILL RECEIVE A TUBE OF FLEA DROPS, THEY CAN BE USED ANYTIME THAT YOU FEEL THE NEED. YOUR VET CAN KEEP YOU SUPPLIED WITH FLEA DROPS, THEY ARE USUALLY  APPLIED MONTHLY TO HELP  KEEP YOUR PET FLEA FREE. 

YOU WILL RECEIVE A SAMPLE OF HEART-GARD . THIS IS A CHEWABLE WORMER THAT SHOULD BE GIVEN TO YOUR PUPPY TWO WEEKS AFTER THE LAST TIME HE WAS WORMED, (BUT NOT BEFORE TWO WEEKS, YOU DONT WANT TO OVERDOSE YOUR NEW BABY)  HIS LAST WORMING WOULD HAVE BEEN WITH STRONGID AT HIS VET VISIT. HIS LAST WORMING DATE  IS NOTED ON HIS  HEALTH PAPERWORK.   BE SURE TO NOTE ON HIS HEALTH RECORDS IF YOU USE THE HEART-GARD, SO THAT YOUR VET IS AWARE.  HEART GARD IS A  ONCE MONTHLY WORMER  THAT CAN BE PURCHASED FROM YOUR VET. THIS KEEPS YOUR PUPPY SAFE FROM WORMS INCLUDING HEART WORMS. 

   ALWAYS REMEMBER*****

DO NOT SET YOUR PUPPY DOWN IN PUBLIC PLACES. THERE ARE GERMS THERE. ANOTHER WORDS, DO NOT PUT YOUR PUPPY DOWN ANYWHERE THAT YOU WOULD NOT PUT DOWN A BARE-ASSED NAKED  HUMAN BABY!

WHEN YOU TAKE YOUR PUPPY TO THE VET FOR HIS/ HER CHECKUPS, BRING HIM/ HER IN THEIR CRATE! DONT DRAG YOUR PUPPY IN ON A LEASH, THEREFORE EXPOSING YOUR PUPPY TO EVERY SICK DOG THAT WALKED INTO THE VET OFFICE. AND AGAIN...NO SHARING GERMS.... OTHER PEOPLE ARE THERE BECAUSE THEY HAVE PETS, AND PROBABLY SICK PETS...YOU DONT WANT THEM TO TOUCH YOUR PUPPY.   AND DONT LET THEIR PET SMELL/ TOUCH  YOUR NEW PUPPY OR THE CRATE THAT HE IS BEING TRANSPORTED IN,  THIS ISNT A SOCIAL CALL.  (AND DONT TOUCH THEIR PET, EITHER)! BE SURE TO BRING THE SHOT RECORD AND THE VET RECORD THAT IS INCLUDED IN YOUR PUPPIES FOLDER FOR YOUR VET, IF YOU WORM THE PUPPY AT HOME, OR USE FLEA DROPS, INCLUDE THAT INFORMATION ONTO YOUR PUPPIES HEALTH RECORD SO YOUR VET IS AWARE OF EVERYTHING THAT HAS BEEN DONE ALREADY TO KEEP YOUR PUPPY SAFE. 

                                         ****MORE BELOW***

                                ***CARING FOR YOUR NEW PUPPY****

I suggest purchasing a crate for your puppy to travel, sleep in, and have down time in. Wal Mart seems to have the best prices on crates. A PLASTIC crate is what you are looking for, not a wire cage that some believe is a good kennel. They are not. . The wire cages are NOT the best choice for a puppy. The plastic crates make a puppy feel safer, its more like a "den'. (you can of course cover a  wire crate  with a towel or a sheet,  ...and then watch in horror as the puppy proceeds to pull the towel into the crate thru the bars , ruining the towel and eating the fibers which can cost you a large vet bill...)  You will be purchasing several crates as your puppy grows, pick a crate big enough for your puppy to sleep in...but not bounce around and play in! (If  the crate is too large,  if its large enough for a "potty spot", the  puppy will eventually learn to poop in the crate.which is NOT what you want to start happening!! .) A GOOD  CRATE SIZE TO START WITH FOR A DOODLE  IS 26" X 18" X 16".  The next crate size  you move up to will be what is refered to as "medium", it is approx 20" x20 x 28.   Outgrown crates can sold, there usually is a good market for them on craigslist!! If YOU purchase a used crate, scrub  it first with bleach/ water, let it dry completely, then wash it with ammonia/ water. Some germs are not killed with just bleach, and for heavens sake dont mix the bleach and ammonia, it is toxic...just wash the crate twice, even if it looks clean when you buy it used! 

Next important item is a "puppy play pen" or exercise pen". These are usually a gold or black  color, they are 8 wire panels hooked together that fold out like an accordian . You can arrange this pen in many different shapes to contain your puppy   and they are also useful to block  a puppy out of a room . I dont ever buy the tall 3-4' Pens, only the 2 foot size. Its much easier to step into the pen to get the puppy if you can actually step over the sides...the doors to the pens are basically useless.Good luck trying to bend over to open the  door  while your puppy is jumping from excitement on the other side ! Its much easier just to have a pen low enough that you can step over the side. 

            ***AGAIN***

BOTH CRATES AND PLAY PENS CAN OFTEN BE FOUND USED ON CRAIGSLIST OR AT GARAGE SALES. JUST MAKE SURE THEY ARE SCRUBBED VERY WELL WITH A BLEACH/ WATER SOLUTION BEFORE YOU USE THEM. AND THEN  AFTER IT DRIES AN AMMONIA/ WATER SOLUTION TO   KILL PARVO AND OTHER NASTY BUGS. (Do not mix the bleach and ammonia, the fumes are toxic!!) 

 You dont have to  go crazy purchasing toys for your puppy. Go to the Dollar store, buy the firm toys  made for dogs, there are usually   stuffies or rope toys there,  just not the   plastic  or soft rubber ones that  your puppy  will   tear apart, eat and choke on!! The toys will eventually get so gross from wear, even after washing them you will be throwing them away. Its much  easier to throw away a dollor toy then the same toy you purchased for $8-$10 at a pet store!! Wait until the puppy isnt as "chewy" to buy the more expensve toys. 

The same advice  for leashes and collars, your puppy will be growing fast! Go to the dollar store until the puppy is older.

Buy your puppy  fresh apples,  soft carrots and real  beef  bones from the grocery store, what used to be called "Soup bones". these make great chew toys and your puppy needs to chew! I buy food quality bones, not the type sold at pet stores, just the type sold for people to make soup or broth with. A package of soup bones from the store will have several bones in it, toss in the freezer the unused ones to keep them fresh. when the chewed on bone gets small, throw it away so your puppy can not choke on it. 

Rawhide is dangerous, dont buy it for your puppy!

HERE ARE SOME OF THE MOST ASKED QUESTIONS.

1) WILL MY PUPPY HAVE HIS SHOTS?

ANSWER; OF COURSE THE PUPPY WILL BE STARTED ON HIS/ HER SERIES OF SHOTS! YOU MUST CONTINUE THE SHOT PROGRAM THAT YOUR VET RECOMMENDS. PLAN ON TAKING YOUR PUPPY IN TO THE VET FOR HIS/ HER NEXT SHOT, USUALLY  2-3 WEEKS AFTER PICKING UP YOUR PUPPY. HE/SHE WILL NEED SEVERAL MORE  BOOSTER SHOTS AND ALSO  A RABIES SHOT WHEN AGE APPROPRIATE. 

2) WILL THE PUPPY BE WORMED?

ANSWER; OF COURSE YOUR PUPPY WILL BE WORMED.  YOU MUST CONTINUE THE WORMING OF YOUR PUPPY AS YOUR PUPPY GROWS, APPROX EVERY TWO WEEKS. THIS IS BECAUSE THE WORMER KILLS THE WORMS BUT NOT THE EGGS, SO YOU KEEP WORMING THEM ON A SCHEDULE WHEN THEY ARE A PUPPY  TO STOP THE CYCLE. PUPPIES RE-INFEST THEM SELVES BY STEPPING ON THEIR POOP...SO THEY ARE WORMED OFTEN WHEN YOUNG! 

3) WHAT WILL I FEED MY PUPPY, I WANT TO FEED IT THE SAME THAT YOU ARE FEEDING!

ANSWER; UNLESS YOU ARE WILLING TO COOK FOR THE PUPPY AS I DO, YOU WILL BE CHANGING HIS / HER FOOD. (IF YOU WANT TO COOK, THERE IS LOTS OF INFORMATION AND RECIPES OUT THERE! ) I USE HAMBURGER OR CHICKEN, RICE AND VEGGYS WITH A LITTLE BUTTER AND SOMETIMES EGGS.  (THE iNSTA POT MAKES THIS EASY!! ) I ALSO MIX SEVERAL BRANDS OF DRY PUPPY CHOW TOGETHER AND FEED THAT "FREE CHOICE" IN A SEPERATE BOWL   SO THE PUPPIES ARE USED TO MANY DIFFERENT TYPES/ FLAVORS.  I  FEED THE PUPPIES PLAIN UNFLAVORED YOGURT, (ABOUT A TABLESPOON EACH)  IT IS GOOD FOR THEIR BELLIES.  I ALSO FEED  FRESH GOATS MILK WHEN ITS AVAILABLE LOCALLY. (NEVER FEED COWS MILK THOUGH, UNLESS IT IS MADE INTO YOGURT OR COTTAGE CHEESE) 

SO, PICK A DECENT BRAND OF DRY PUPPY KIBBLE AND STICK TO IT. ADD A TABLESPOON OF UNFLAVORED YOGURT DAILY...EVEN AS AN ADULT.

YOU WILL HAVE FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED IN YOUR PUPPY PACKET.

4) WILL MY PUPPY BE HOUSEBROKEN?

ANSWER; I WISH!! THESE ARE BABIES AND YOU HAVE TO TEACH THEM. GOLDENDOODLES THAT ARE RAISED CLEAN AS MINE ARE USUALLY HOUSEBREAK FAIRLY EASY. BE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF PAPER TOWELS AND NEWSPAPERS AND SPEND THE TIME YOUR FIRST WEEK TOGETHER  BY  HOUSEBREAKING YOUR PUPPY AND TEACHING HIM/ HER THEIR NEW NAME! 

5) HOW DO I REGISTER MY PUPPY ?

ANSWER;  IF YOUR PUPPY IS SOLD AS REGISTERED, YOUR PUPPY WILL COME WITH HIS "PUPPY PAPERS".  YOU CHOOSE A NAME FOR YOUR NEW BABY ,  FILL OUT THE PAPERWORK AND SEND IN THE REQUIRED FEE TO THE REGISTRY AND THEN THE OFFICIAL REGISTRATION PAPERS WITH HIS/ HER NAME AND YOUR NAME WILL BE SENT TO YOU FROM THE REGISTRY.  IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO BE SURE AND REGISTER YOUR PUPPY, THIS DOES HELP PROVE OWNERSHIP IF THERE IS EVER AN ISSUE IN THE FUTURE.